Plumbing Basics

Residential plumbing systems are easy to understand. In general, a home plumbing system consists of two networks of pipes. One is the supply system—the pipes that carry water into the house and distribute it to fixtures. The other is the drain, waste, and vent (DWV) system, which carries drain water, waste, and harmful gases out of the house.

Supply

In the supply system, an underground line from a water source connects to a meter that measures the amount of water entering the house. Next to the meter is a shutoff valve that, when closed, stops water from flowing into the house. The main supply line branches into two lines—one for cold water and one for hot. The cold-water supply line feeds the network of supply pipes throughout the house. The hot-water supply line goes to your water heater. From there, the hot-water pipes run parallel with the cold-water pipes to serve various fixtures and faucets.

Drains and Vents

Your home’s water-supply system is pressurized, but the drain-waste system depends on gravity. These pipes also are connected to vents which allow sewer gases to escape harmlessly up a chimney-like vent stack. Because each new or moved bathroom fixture must connect with a stack, you must know the locations of your main vents, then determine a route for attaching new vent lines to them. Consult local building codes for the required size and general confirmation of drainage, waste and vent lines.

Key Points
Replacing old fixtures with new ones in the same location is fairly simple. But it’s best to leave more complex plumbing jobs to a professional unless you’re an accomplished do-it-yourselfer. Either way, you should be aware of some basic rules and principles:

Each bathroom fixture must have a drain with a trap - a curved pipe that always retains a little water in it as a seal to prevent sewage gases from getting into the house.

Each drain must be connected to a vent pipe that either goes directly up through the roof or connects to another vent stack. Plumbing vents run from the lowest part of the system clear up to the roof. For cosmetic reasons, it’s best to run vent stacks up through the back side of the roof, not the front.

The Low Bidder

Dear Potential Customer,

You don’t know me but you’ll love doing business with me, because I’m always the low bidder. No matter what price anyone else quotes you, I guarantee I can do the work cheaper.
What’s my secret? Simple. I keep overhead down. Other companies inflate their costs by paying high wages for top-notch workers. They’re too stuck up to hire the people so desperate for work that they will take any job offered them. Not me. Just like you look for the low bidder, I search for help that will work for as little as possible. And then I’m a merciless boss. Think of me as a throwback to the good old days when workers were expected to put in a week’s work for a day’s pay. If they don’t like it, they can go back to ripping out asbestos or whatever it was they used to do before I came along.
Nor do I pamper my workers with costly benefits like health insurance, paid holidays and so forth. Most of my help doesn’t stick around long enough to collect on any benefits anyway. The money I save goes into your pocket when you hire me because I’m the low bidder.
Another reason I’m the low bidder is because I don’t overpay for high-grade equipment when I know I can get stuff a lot cheaper that will work okay for a pretty long time. Do you realize that a lot of tools and equipment they use might actually outlive the plumbing contractor? What’s the point in that? When you really think about it, your best value comes from stuff that will collapse shortly after the owner does.
The same holds true for office machines, vehicles and all the other expensive things it takes to be in business nowadays. Fortunately for you, I save money by not splurging on the best. Also, I don’t buy anything until it’s absolutely necessary. Everything in my gar… uh, shop, dates back to the ’70s and ’80s when things didn’t cost nearly as much as they do now. I believe in using things until they fall apart. My trucks have the baldest tires in town. I make do with dull bits and rusty wrenches. Maybe this means my people have to use a little more elbow grease, but that’s their problem. It saves you money.
Another big cost saving is insurance. You wouldn’t believe what they charge for premiums nowadays. Yet on the vast majority of jobs, it’s a complete waste of money. So I don’t bother with it. It’s a lot cheaper to just keep telling my workers to be careful.
Another big waste of money is all those licenses, permits and other regulations the government is always telling me to comply with. Aren’t you sick and tired of big government? Just hire me, and I’ll show you how to dodge all that red tape.
How can I possibly be the low bidder on every job? People sometimes ask me that. They wonder how I can guarantee being the lowest even before I know what the other guys are bidding.
I’ll let you in on my secret. Because I’m such a sharp businessman, I simply refuse to be underbid. Show me anyone’s job quotation, and I’ll figure out a way to do it for less. I can always shave expenses a little more by cutting corners on labor or materials and employing other tricks of the trade, even if it means short shrifting someone else’s job.
Another thing is, most contractors are greedy. They try to make money on every stinkin’ job. I know I can’t do that and still be the low bidder, so I don’t even try. Fact of the matter is, I lose money on most of my jobs. I believe in making it up in volume.
Some of my competitors are so greedy they expect people like you to pay enough to let them live in a nice house, drive a new car and put their kids through college. They don’t understand that this is trade work, and we’re not entitled to make as much money as lawyers and bean counters and all those other office folks who wear ties to work. I know my place. That’s why I’m the low bidder.
You might hear some of my competitors badmouth me because of the way I do business. They’re just jealous because I get so much work. Being the low bidder, I always have more work than I can handle. But rest assured that no matter how busy I might be, I would never turn down your job. I need that volume.
So quit messing around with all those companies that charge more than you want to pay. Just give me a call, and you can be certain that you’re doing business with the low bidder.
I guarantee you’ll get your money’s worth.

Water heaters

Water heaters are a very common source of providing hot water. They are also very reliable, but will cause problems eventually, especially with hard water. The water heater is a tank of water that is heated up using it's own source of energy, as opposed to the indirect fired or the tankless coil, which uses an external source. Most water heaters use either gas or electric. There are oil fired water heaters as well, although much less common.
The one thing to always keep in mind with a water heater, is that it will eventually leak. It might, of course, be replaced before it does, but generally a water heater is repairable as long as it holds water. It is a good idea to plan ahead if necessary in order to prevent serious damage to your home when this leak happens, because you won't get a warning.
If your water heater is in an unfinished basement, then it shouldn't be much of a problem. The leak doesn't generally blow out and flood a basement, but it might get some storage boxes wet before it is found. The real problem is when the water heater is in a closet or on the second floor. Anywhere that a lot of damage can happen with a relatively small leak. For these cases, a drain pan is needed. The drain pan is placed under the water heater and piped to a safe location. Then, when the leak does happen, it won't damage anything around it.

Another common piece to all water heaters is the relief valve. The relief valve is water heater specific and is sensitive to pressure and temperature. The pressure is set to 150psi. This can sometimes cause problems in a public water system when the pressure gets very close to this. The relief valve also needs to be piped to within 6 inches of the ground to prevent damage or injury in the event of a blow off. Many older water heaters were not piped to the ground. New installations require this and it's a good idea to pipe the old ones correctly.

Gas water heaters can be very dangerous. Never work with a gas appliance unless you are qualified to do so. The gas burner of a water heater is very similar to a gas boiler, but if you're not experienced in working with gas, call a professional.
The electric set up in an electric water heater is mostly universal. It consists of 2 thermostats(upper and lower) and two heating elements. These elements burn out if energized without being completely submerged in water, so the water heater needs to be turned off anytime the water system will be drained down. Troubleshooting a water heater requires knowledge of how electric works and also should not be attempted by an unqualified person.

Clogged Drain Health Alert

Alert

How to clean clogged sink
Keeping your drains clean not only saves you a headache by preventing an unpleasant drain clog, but it also protects you and your family from harmful bacteria, infestations of drain insects, and odors originating in your home’s drains and plumbing systems.

When a drain clogs, you can attempt to unclog the pipe with simple home solutions without calling a plumbing company, but it is always important to remember certain safety measures when taking on do-it-yourself plumbing projects.
Why Are Clogged Drains Harmful to Health?

The worst case scenario caused by blockages in drains is sewage back-flow, but even when the clogging is minor and no sewage is present, other problems like drain insects breeding on the insides of the pipes and persistent drain odors threaten the well-being of your household.
Backed-up Drains and Sewage

If at any time you notice sewage backing up in your shower drain or bathroom drains, you should take caution to minimize exposure to the contaminant because it contains numerous bacteria that cause disease. Immediately protect yourself by following this check list:

   1. Make sure children, pets and the elderly are not allowed in the exposed area; they are the most vulnerable to bacteria threatening health.
   2. When in contact with sewage backing up from the clogged drain, use gloves and a face mask, and avoid skin contact with the material
   3. Clean up the contaminated area and every item that came to contact with the sewage (especially toys) with diluted bleach (1 cup bleach for every 5 gallons of water)
   4. Be sure to carefully wash your hands with soap after treating the sewage from the clogged drain
   5. If you or a family member has symptoms such as fever, chills, or vomiting, it is a sign of exposure to sewage, and medical attention may be needed.

Drains Flies and Insect Infestations in Drains

Drain flies, also called moth flies or sewer flies, breed in drains, and while they do not bite, they sometimes spread bacteria and microorganisms from the location of breeding around your home. Cleaning drains professionally not only eliminates clogs, but will also make sure that the breeding areas for drain flies are disinfected. You can also locate the drain or drain trap where the flies are coming from, and use an appropriate drain cleaner meant for removing organic debris from the interior of the pipes.

Drain FlyIn homes, the most common areas for drain flies to breed in are the bathroom drains, most likely the shower drain. You can place masking tape on the drain opening, and if numerous flies get caught, you have probably found the source. Beware that the flies might not be coming from just one drain, but areas like sump pump pits and sewers in the basement are also common homes for the drain flies.

Regular drain cleaning ensures that your drains remain free from odors, insect infestations, and minor clogs. Clogged drains are only one of the nuisances involving drains, and protecting the health of the members of your household requires keeping the plumbing in your home running smoothly, even if that means calling in the pros every now and then.

End of Summer Sale Receive 10% off any plumbing service!

End of Summer Sale Receive 10% off any plumbing service!

Minnesota Plumbing Codes Conflict

Editor’s note: The following is a response to “New plumbing code for Minnesota? Them’s fightin’ words,” which appeared in Finance & Commerce on May 19. It represents the views of the International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO), the group that developed the Uniform Plumbing Code and a key player in the state effort.
While we applaud Finance & Commerce’s effort to bring the state plumbing code issue to the public’s attention with its May 19 coverage, we believe the story included inaccuracies that must be corrected.
To give the reader a more balanced view of what’s happening with the code, we want to highlight some myths we believe the article created and provide our view of the facts:
Myth: A “plumbing code war” in Minnesota is pitting contractors, unions, building operators, owners, designers, and others against each other.
Fact: The state Plumbing Board’s goal is to maintain the best possible code by using a familiar format that’s based on the latest technology for the plumbing systems while protecting public safety. Far from creating conflict, this will eliminate the need for extensive training and education.
Myth: The issue is to replace Minnesota’s homegrown plumbing code with one of two international codes — the International Plumbing Code (IPC) or the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC).
Fact: There has been only one proposal to replace Minnesota’s homegrown plumbing code. It was initiated by the International Code Council (ICC) utilizing a local building inspector in early 2010. The actual request document asks the Board to “repeal” and “replace” the existing code with the International Plumbing Code (IPC). Our group, IAPMO, requested that the Board consider the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) and our association’s Green Plumbing Supplement as the basis for updating the state code. This is what the Plumbing Board decided to do by two-thirds majority vote. At no cost to the state or public, we’re working with the board and the Minnesota Department of Labor & Industry to merge the existing Minnesota Plumbing and the Uniform Plumbing. We submit each draft for review to Labor & Industry officials and the Plumbing Board. The final decision for any revisions rests with the department.
Myth: Plumbing contractors and the board prefer the UPC because it sells more plumbing.
Fact: Plumbing contractors and the board do prefer the UPC. So do many others, such as plumbing inspectors. Besides being very similar, the state code and the UPC share the same philosophy that all plumbing provisions should be in one place and that place is the plumbing code. Plumbing is plumbing and residential plumbing is no less important than commercial plumbing. However, this is not the case with the IPC, which applies only to commercial buildings, and the International Residential Code is applicable to residential construction. Additionally, those two documents conflict in many areas. The user would have to learn two codes to cover commercial and residential. Furthermore, the IPC references six other codes that would otherwise be covered by the UPC. Buying the necessary documents and getting training makes this a very expensive proposition for a plumber, inspector, designer, or homeowner.
Myth: Because of the other codes adopted in the state, the only logical choice for Minnesota is the IPC.
Fact: Statements like this by some organizations are uninformed. Each ICC code is developed concurrently by one or more committees and supported by different staff members. A number of them are out-sourced or obtained from other organizations. With regard to plumbing, the IPC is not the predominant code in 26 states. There are numerous examples of codes developed by local authorities and our organization that are widely adopted and that work well with the International Building Code.
Myth: The Minnesota Plumbing Board is unwilling to consider the ICC’s arguments or the IPC, and “stonewalled” an ICC lobbyist.
Fact:  After a review in the late 1990s and early 2000s, Minnesota determined the IPC is not a suitable plumbing code for the state. More recently, the plumbing board established a code committee after receiving a formal request from ICC to repeal the existing code and adopt the IPC. All meetings of the board and subcommittees had public meeting notices. In addition, both the ICC and our organization made at least two presentations and had the opportunity to attend all subcommittee meetings that addressed this very issue, as well as the regular board meetings.
Myth:  The “fixture” count will cost Minnesota upwards of $6,000 per building with the UPC.
Fact: In the example cited in the story, the reason for the disparity in the fixture count is not because of needless additional fixtures to pad labor and building cost, but rather to respond to the research performed by the Stevens Institute of Technology and American Society of Plumbing Engineers that concludes that women require more plumbing fixtures due to the differences in how fixtures are utilized and wait times. The research also forms the basis for recommendations made by the American Restroom Association and the Journal of Planning Literature.
Myth: The IPC is a “greener” code.
Fact: Quite the opposite is true. IAPMO currently publishes the most advanced green plumbing code in the United States. The ICC is offering a draft document not yet formally approved by their organization or Board of Directors. The 2012 UPC will be the most sustainable plumbing code ever published. Green is nothing new; in fact, the UPC has been green for decades, with provisions for gray water reuse and establishing water consumption limits for plumbing fixtures and fittings. In 2012, the UPC will have numerous substantive changes that raise the sustainability bar even higher, while maintaining health, safety and reliability.

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