Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Plumbing Basics

Residential plumbing systems are easy to understand. In general, a home plumbing system consists of two networks of pipes. One is the supply system—the pipes that carry water into the house and distribute it to fixtures. The other is the drain, waste, and vent (DWV) system, which carries drain water, waste, and harmful gases out of the house.

Supply
In the supply system, an underground line from a water source connects to a meter that measures the amount of water entering the house. Next to the meter is a shutoff valve that, when closed, stops water from flowing into the house. The main supply line branches into two lines—one for cold water and one for hot. The cold-water supply line feeds the network of supply pipes throughout the house. The hot-water supply line goes to your water heater. From there, the hot-water pipes run parallel with the cold-water pipes to serve various fixtures and faucets.

Drains and Vents
Your home’s water-supply system is pressurized, but the drain-waste system depends on gravity. These pipes also are connected to vents which allow sewer gases to escape harmlessly up a chimney-like vent stack. Because each new or moved bathroom fixture must connect with a stack, you must know the locations of your main vents, then determine a route for attaching new vent lines to them. Consult local building codes for the required size and general confirmation of drainage, waste and vent lines.

Key Points
Replacing old fixtures with new ones in the same location is fairly simple. But it’s best to leave more complex plumbing jobs to a professional unless you’re an accomplished do-it-yourselfer. Either way, you should be aware of some basic rules and principles:

Each bathroom fixture must have a drain with a trap - a curved pipe that always retains a little water in it as a seal to prevent sewage gases from getting into the house.

Each drain must be connected to a vent pipe that either goes directly up through the roof or connects to another vent stack. Plumbing vents run from the lowest part of the system clear up to the roof. For cosmetic reasons, it’s best to run vent stacks up through the back side of the roof, not the front.

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

The Low Bidder

Dear Potential Customer,

You don’t know me but you’ll love doing business with me, because I’m always the low bidder. No matter what price anyone else quotes you, I guarantee I can do the work cheaper.
What’s my secret? Simple. I keep overhead down. Other companies inflate their costs by paying high wages for top-notch workers. They’re too stuck up to hire the people so desperate for work that they will take any job offered them. Not me. Just like you look for the low bidder, I search for help that will work for as little as possible. And then I’m a merciless boss. Think of me as a throwback to the good old days when workers were expected to put in a week’s work for a day’s pay. If they don’t like it, they can go back to ripping out asbestos or whatever it was they used to do before I came along.
Nor do I pamper my workers with costly benefits like health insurance, paid holidays and so forth. Most of my help doesn’t stick around long enough to collect on any benefits anyway. The money I save goes into your pocket when you hire me because I’m the low bidder.
Another reason I’m the low bidder is because I don’t overpay for high-grade equipment when I know I can get stuff a lot cheaper that will work okay for a pretty long time. Do you realize that a lot of tools and equipment they use might actually outlive the plumbing contractor? What’s the point in that? When you really think about it, your best value comes from stuff that will collapse shortly after the owner does.
The same holds true for office machines, vehicles and all the other expensive things it takes to be in business nowadays. Fortunately for you, I save money by not splurging on the best. Also, I don’t buy anything until it’s absolutely necessary. Everything in my gar… uh, shop, dates back to the ’70s and ’80s when things didn’t cost nearly as much as they do now. I believe in using things until they fall apart. My trucks have the baldest tires in town. I make do with dull bits and rusty wrenches. Maybe this means my people have to use a little more elbow grease, but that’s their problem. It saves you money.
Another big cost saving is insurance. You wouldn’t believe what they charge for premiums nowadays. Yet on the vast majority of jobs, it’s a complete waste of money. So I don’t bother with it. It’s a lot cheaper to just keep telling my workers to be careful.
Another big waste of money is all those licenses, permits and other regulations the government is always telling me to comply with. Aren’t you sick and tired of big government? Just hire me, and I’ll show you how to dodge all that red tape.
How can I possibly be the low bidder on every job? People sometimes ask me that. They wonder how I can guarantee being the lowest even before I know what the other guys are bidding.
I’ll let you in on my secret. Because I’m such a sharp businessman, I simply refuse to be underbid. Show me anyone’s job quotation, and I’ll figure out a way to do it for less. I can always shave expenses a little more by cutting corners on labor or materials and employing other tricks of the trade, even if it means short shrifting someone else’s job.
Another thing is, most contractors are greedy. They try to make money on every stinkin’ job. I know I can’t do that and still be the low bidder, so I don’t even try. Fact of the matter is, I lose money on most of my jobs. I believe in making it up in volume.
Some of my competitors are so greedy they expect people like you to pay enough to let them live in a nice house, drive a new car and put their kids through college. They don’t understand that this is trade work, and we’re not entitled to make as much money as lawyers and bean counters and all those other office folks who wear ties to work. I know my place. That’s why I’m the low bidder.
You might hear some of my competitors badmouth me because of the way I do business. They’re just jealous because I get so much work. Being the low bidder, I always have more work than I can handle. But rest assured that no matter how busy I might be, I would never turn down your job. I need that volume.
So quit messing around with all those companies that charge more than you want to pay. Just give me a call, and you can be certain that you’re doing business with the low bidder.
I guarantee you’ll get your money’s worth.

Monday, October 31, 2011

Water heaters

Water heaters are a very common source of providing hot water. They are also very reliable, but will cause problems eventually, especially with hard water. The water heater is a tank of water that is heated up using it's own source of energy, as opposed to the indirect fired or the tankless coil, which uses an external source. Most water heaters use either gas or electric. There are oil fired water heaters as well, although much less common.
The one thing to always keep in mind with a water heater, is that it will eventually leak. It might, of course, be replaced before it does, but generally a water heater is repairable as long as it holds water. It is a good idea to plan ahead if necessary in order to prevent serious damage to your home when this leak happens, because you won't get a warning.
If your water heater is in an unfinished basement, then it shouldn't be much of a problem. The leak doesn't generally blow out and flood a basement, but it might get some storage boxes wet before it is found. The real problem is when the water heater is in a closet or on the second floor. Anywhere that a lot of damage can happen with a relatively small leak. For these cases, a drain pan is needed. The drain pan is placed under the water heater and piped to a safe location. Then, when the leak does happen, it won't damage anything around it.
Another common piece to all water heaters is the relief valve. The relief valve is water heater specific and is sensitive to pressure and temperature. The pressure is set to 150psi. This can sometimes cause problems in a public water system when the pressure gets very close to this. The relief valve also needs to be piped to within 6 inches of the ground to prevent damage or injury in the event of a blow off. Many older water heaters were not piped to the ground. New installations require this and it's a good idea to pipe the old ones correctly.
Gas water heaters can be very dangerous. Never work with a gas appliance unless you are qualified to do so. The gas burner of a water heater is very similar to a gas boiler, but if you're not experienced in working with gas, call a professional.
The electric set up in an electric water heater is mostly universal. It consists of 2 thermostats(upper and lower) and two heating elements. These elements burn out if energized without being completely submerged in water, so the water heater needs to be turned off anytime the water system will be drained down. Troubleshooting a water heater requires knowledge of how electric works and also should not be attempted by an unqualified person.

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Clogged Drain Health Alert

Alert

How to clean clogged sink
Keeping your drains clean not only saves you a headache by preventing an unpleasant drain clog, but it also protects you and your family from harmful bacteria, infestations of drain insects, and odors originating in your home’s drains and plumbing systems.

When a drain clogs, you can attempt to unclog the pipe with simple home solutions without calling a plumbing company, but it is always important to remember certain safety measures when taking on do-it-yourself plumbing projects.
Why Are Clogged Drains Harmful to Health?

The worst case scenario caused by blockages in drains is sewage back-flow, but even when the clogging is minor and no sewage is present, other problems like drain insects breeding on the insides of the pipes and persistent drain odors threaten the well-being of your household.
Backed-up Drains and Sewage

If at any time you notice sewage backing up in your shower drain or bathroom drains, you should take caution to minimize exposure to the contaminant because it contains numerous bacteria that cause disease. Immediately protect yourself by following this check list:

   1. Make sure children, pets and the elderly are not allowed in the exposed area; they are the most vulnerable to bacteria threatening health.
   2. When in contact with sewage backing up from the clogged drain, use gloves and a face mask, and avoid skin contact with the material
   3. Clean up the contaminated area and every item that came to contact with the sewage (especially toys) with diluted bleach (1 cup bleach for every 5 gallons of water)
   4. Be sure to carefully wash your hands with soap after treating the sewage from the clogged drain
   5. If you or a family member has symptoms such as fever, chills, or vomiting, it is a sign of exposure to sewage, and medical attention may be needed.

Drains Flies and Insect Infestations in Drains

Drain flies, also called moth flies or sewer flies, breed in drains, and while they do not bite, they sometimes spread bacteria and microorganisms from the location of breeding around your home. Cleaning drains professionally not only eliminates clogs, but will also make sure that the breeding areas for drain flies are disinfected. You can also locate the drain or drain trap where the flies are coming from, and use an appropriate drain cleaner meant for removing organic debris from the interior of the pipes.

Drain FlyIn homes, the most common areas for drain flies to breed in are the bathroom drains, most likely the shower drain. You can place masking tape on the drain opening, and if numerous flies get caught, you have probably found the source. Beware that the flies might not be coming from just one drain, but areas like sump pump pits and sewers in the basement are also common homes for the drain flies.

Regular drain cleaning ensures that your drains remain free from odors, insect infestations, and minor clogs. Clogged drains are only one of the nuisances involving drains, and protecting the health of the members of your household requires keeping the plumbing in your home running smoothly, even if that means calling in the pros every now and then.

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Minnesota Plumbing Codes Conflict

Editor’s note: The following is a response to “New plumbing code for Minnesota? Them’s fightin’ words,” which appeared in Finance & Commerce on May 19. It represents the views of the International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO), the group that developed the Uniform Plumbing Code and a key player in the state effort.
While we applaud Finance & Commerce’s effort to bring the state plumbing code issue to the public’s attention with its May 19 coverage, we believe the story included inaccuracies that must be corrected.
To give the reader a more balanced view of what’s happening with the code, we want to highlight some myths we believe the article created and provide our view of the facts:
Myth: A “plumbing code war” in Minnesota is pitting contractors, unions, building operators, owners, designers, and others against each other.
Fact: The state Plumbing Board’s goal is to maintain the best possible code by using a familiar format that’s based on the latest technology for the plumbing systems while protecting public safety. Far from creating conflict, this will eliminate the need for extensive training and education.
Myth: The issue is to replace Minnesota’s homegrown plumbing code with one of two international codes — the International Plumbing Code (IPC) or the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC).
Fact: There has been only one proposal to replace Minnesota’s homegrown plumbing code. It was initiated by the International Code Council (ICC) utilizing a local building inspector in early 2010. The actual request document asks the Board to “repeal” and “replace” the existing code with the International Plumbing Code (IPC). Our group, IAPMO, requested that the Board consider the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) and our association’s Green Plumbing Supplement as the basis for updating the state code. This is what the Plumbing Board decided to do by two-thirds majority vote. At no cost to the state or public, we’re working with the board and the Minnesota Department of Labor & Industry to merge the existing Minnesota Plumbing and the Uniform Plumbing. We submit each draft for review to Labor & Industry officials and the Plumbing Board. The final decision for any revisions rests with the department.
Myth: Plumbing contractors and the board prefer the UPC because it sells more plumbing.
Fact: Plumbing contractors and the board do prefer the UPC. So do many others, such as plumbing inspectors. Besides being very similar, the state code and the UPC share the same philosophy that all plumbing provisions should be in one place and that place is the plumbing code. Plumbing is plumbing and residential plumbing is no less important than commercial plumbing. However, this is not the case with the IPC, which applies only to commercial buildings, and the International Residential Code is applicable to residential construction. Additionally, those two documents conflict in many areas. The user would have to learn two codes to cover commercial and residential. Furthermore, the IPC references six other codes that would otherwise be covered by the UPC. Buying the necessary documents and getting training makes this a very expensive proposition for a plumber, inspector, designer, or homeowner.
Myth: Because of the other codes adopted in the state, the only logical choice for Minnesota is the IPC.
Fact: Statements like this by some organizations are uninformed. Each ICC code is developed concurrently by one or more committees and supported by different staff members. A number of them are out-sourced or obtained from other organizations. With regard to plumbing, the IPC is not the predominant code in 26 states. There are numerous examples of codes developed by local authorities and our organization that are widely adopted and that work well with the International Building Code.
Myth: The Minnesota Plumbing Board is unwilling to consider the ICC’s arguments or the IPC, and “stonewalled” an ICC lobbyist.
Fact:  After a review in the late 1990s and early 2000s, Minnesota determined the IPC is not a suitable plumbing code for the state. More recently, the plumbing board established a code committee after receiving a formal request from ICC to repeal the existing code and adopt the IPC. All meetings of the board and subcommittees had public meeting notices. In addition, both the ICC and our organization made at least two presentations and had the opportunity to attend all subcommittee meetings that addressed this very issue, as well as the regular board meetings.
Myth:  The “fixture” count will cost Minnesota upwards of $6,000 per building with the UPC.
Fact: In the example cited in the story, the reason for the disparity in the fixture count is not because of needless additional fixtures to pad labor and building cost, but rather to respond to the research performed by the Stevens Institute of Technology and American Society of Plumbing Engineers that concludes that women require more plumbing fixtures due to the differences in how fixtures are utilized and wait times. The research also forms the basis for recommendations made by the American Restroom Association and the Journal of Planning Literature.
Myth: The IPC is a “greener” code.
Fact: Quite the opposite is true. IAPMO currently publishes the most advanced green plumbing code in the United States. The ICC is offering a draft document not yet formally approved by their organization or Board of Directors. The 2012 UPC will be the most sustainable plumbing code ever published. Green is nothing new; in fact, the UPC has been green for decades, with provisions for gray water reuse and establishing water consumption limits for plumbing fixtures and fittings. In 2012, the UPC will have numerous substantive changes that raise the sustainability bar even higher, while maintaining health, safety and reliability.

Friday, July 8, 2011

Green Kitchen

2011 Green Kitchen trends will continue to take off in 2011. This is true for materials and appliances used in the kitchen, but also for cooking practices and techniques. We touched on the kitchen décor trend of using more natural and sustainable kitchen materials in 2011. But the green kitchen trend is also about using energy-efficient appliances, and minimizing overall energy usage and waste in the kitchen itself.
It’s been calculated that more energy is used in the kitchen than in any other room of the house. This great amount of energy use is mainly attributed to refrigerators and ovens, but inefficient dishwashers, toasters, blenders, coffeemakers and microwaves all contribute as well. If you have the means in your 2011 kitchen budget, consider purchasing new kitchen appliances with high energy-star ratings and re-selling or repurposing your old appliances.
According to the Energy Star website, their fridges are required to use 20% less energy than non-energy star models. You can also buy energy star-certified dishwashers, freezers and more, at major kitchen appliance retailers.
In addition to selecting energy-efficient kitchen appliances in 2011, many homeowners will be making a greater effort to reduce and reuse (we hope you’re already recycling!). Kitchen composting systems will become more common and desirable. It’s estimated that most families waste about 25% of food purchased, or throw away $590-$600 worth of food every year. By cutting out impulsive food purchases and introducing a home composting system to your kitchen, your family can save money and minimize waste in 2011.
Low-flow kitchen faucets are another way of conserving in your 2011 kitchen. Faucets from Toto, Kohler, Grohe and American Standard are estimated to conserve water consumption by as much as 30%. Low-flow faucets and spigots are also now available in many attractive styles and materials, like polished chrome, bronze and nickel—so your 2011 eco-friendly kitchen can conserve while still exuding class.

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Trends in Backflow Prevention

To revive a quote from the Clinton/Bush election era, “It’s the economy, stupid!” Businesses in backflow prevention and construction are reacting to the shift in the economic realities of the last few years. Those that are waiting for a return or rebound to old levels are in for a long wait. Business as we know it has changed and so, too, must we — and the products we sell. The hydraulic conditions of backflow (backpressure and backsiphonage) are still running rampant in our piping systems. Products are being influenced by two key economic factors, the economy and legislation.

Recent legislative changes have led to a dramatic change in products being brought to market. In California and Vermont, new laws requiring a lower percentage of lead in bronze were enacted on January 1, 2010. Federal and state governments have always known the hazards of lead and have required lead free products. The problem was that the definition of “lead free” was not clear. Some federal requirements for backflow preventers and other plumbing products stated that bronze “shall contain less than 8.0% by composition to be considered lead free.”

In an effort to further remove exposure to lead, California and Vermont defined “lead free” at the lower level of 0.25% of the exposed wetted area. Although many people may say, “Who cares what they do in California?” the problem is that on January 5, 2011, the 112th Congress of the United States passed an amendment to the Safe Drinking Water Act (SB-3874) requiring the federal definition to mirror the California and Vermont legislation. The federal requirement takes effect January 5, 2014; all bronze plumbing products, including backflow preventers, will have to change by that date.

Since before the Roman Empire ruled the world, lead has been used in bronze to improve the alloy. Lead has certain properties that make bronze a well-rounded, usable alloy. The reduction in allowable lead content has caused manufacturers to look for new metals to replace the 8% of lead to form an economical and easy to use bronze alloy. Some manufacturers are even looking at alternative non-bronze alloys, such as stainless steel and engineered polymers, to assure that their products are in compliance. These new materials, however, require significant increases in machining and manufacturing costs.

Backflow prevention manufacturers have always been under pressure to produce a reliable product more economically. Anyone can design something cheaper, but the product must still work to prevent hydraulic backflow. To assure their reliability, an approval process for all backflow prevention products has become mandatory. The Foundation for Cross Connection Control & Hydraulic Research at the Engineering School of the University of Southern California has become the internationally recognized expert on approval of these products. Their work and research have guided manufacturers in developing reliable products.

Once the products are approved, cost must be taken into consideration. Manufacturers have tried to provide features that reduce installation costs. Making these products lighter and more compact means that they require less physical space and equipment for installation in a piping system. This smaller, more compact size makes it possible to use smaller valve enclosures and freeze protection when needed, thus lowering the average installation cost.

Historically, backflow preventers utilized a horizontal installation orientation. This caused the larger assemblies (4" – 10") to take up several running feet of installation space in a piping system. New approvals allow certain assemblies to flip that horizontal body into a vertical orientation, following the piping up a wall. This sounds simple, but many assemblies arbitrarily taken from a horizontal to a vertical installation hydraulically will not prevent backflow. The demand for vertical orientation has caused manufacturers to address this feature in their designs.

The cost of maintenance is becoming another factor that contractors are evaluating and manufacturers are addressing. It is labor and material intensive to repair most older designs in the field. Field repair of newer designs is becoming far less labor and material intensive. Unfortunately, when business was good, some contractors, not well trained in backflow preventer repair, would mistakenly tell their customers that it is cheaper to replace small assemblies (1/2" – 2"). As the economy has shifted, these same customers are questioning these statements and finding better educated contractors who can repair, rather than replace, installed assemblies when possible.

For a couple more years, backflow preventers will contain leaded bronze. For decades, bronze has been recycled through scrap dealers. The ever-increasing cost of copper (the major ingredient in bronze) has led to a proliferation of theft of installed backflow preventers and of other copper and bronze plumbing and electrical items. The most common theft has occurred on irrigation installations. Thieves remove the assemblies, and nobody realizes the irrigation is off until the sprinkler system is needed or until plant material dries up. Many new theft prevention devices, such as lockable enclosures, are coming to the market.

In any industry, trends can be short or long. The trend for more economical manufacturing, installation and maintenance of backflow preventers will continue beyond good and bad economic times. The education of contractors who install and repair backflow preventers will help them to be more efficient. In the past, manufacturers produced products they could make easily and economically. New design features are forcing manufacturers to talk to their customers and to provide the product features they want to see.


Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Save Money on Plumbing

It's important to focus in on how we can conserve water in our daily lives. In addition to saving money on your water bill each month, water conservation also helps keep lakes, reservoirs and water tables high, reducing overall pollution in our systems.
While we’ve gone over many water saving tips here on our blog, and you can find them easily in the news how to save water these days, its always nice to have a quick checklist that can help you make sure you are doing everything you can as a homeowner. Here are 12 ways you can save water in your home.
1. Check faucets and pipes for leaks. Even a slow drip can add up to many gallons of wasted water each year.
2. Don’t use the toilet as an ashtray or for a bit of trash. Keep a trashcan in every room in the house.
3. Install water savings faucets and showerheads in every room.
4. Teach the entire family about water conservation, and begin reducing the amount of time spent in the shower.
5. Update appliances and toilets with water saving models. In 2009 and 2010 there were many rebate programs and specials on water savings appliances. 
6. Never let the water run when you’re working near the sink. Fill the sink for rinsing dishes. Turn off the water while shaving or brushing your teeth.
7. Use the dishwasher and clothes washer with full loads only.
8. Keep a pitcher of cold water in the fridge to avoid letting the tap water run to cool down.
9. Consider installing a hot water circulating system to bring instant hot water to every faucet in your home.
10. Insulate your pipes. Especially with the cold weather we’ve had lately, a little insulation can help save you in many ways.
11. Put in drought resistant landscaping. Xeriscape your yard, and choose low maintenance plants.
12. Water your lawn only when it needs it. Put in a sensor on your sprinkler system, and only water when we haven’t received moisture.

Green Plumber

Planning a basement remodel this summer? Here are 7 green plumbing ideas to use in your basement remodel.
1. Create a full bath with extras. While an unfinished basement usually comes with roughed-in plumbing, now is the time to move things and make it more efficient for the way you live. Would you prefer a large tub? A walk in shower? A sauna? Just because you’re trying to be more energy efficient and green in your design, doesn’t mean you have to avoid some of the simple pleasures. A green plumber will be able to give you many ideas to stay within your budget, and offer you the best alternatives available.
Green Plumbing Ideas In Your Basement Remodel
2. Think water conservation. All of your fixtures, from faucets to showerheads and toilets can offer complete water efficiency. Instead of shopping the big box stores, ask your green plumber for options and ideas. In many cases he’ll have resources you can’t reach as a consumer.
3. Relocate plumbing to a more efficient area. When a house is built, the basement is often left unfinished. So its of little concern where ducts and pipes are placed. But when you are trying to maximize the space you have, it may be easier to relocate existing pipe to walls or beam areas, places where you can supply more insulation and be more protected from freezes and/or problems.
4. Design a laundry room for efficiency. Many laundry rooms are located in the basement here in Colorado. But that doesn’t mean you have to skimp on size or options. Choose the highest quality, most energy efficient models of washers and dryers. Have a sink installed near your washer to avoid running to the bathroom or an upstairs location for your water needs. And install clothes lines – there are many options to help you avoid using your dryer.
5. Waterproof your basement before you invest in a remodel. Basements are traditionally damp and cool – a perfect combination for potential problems. Before you experience problems, plan for them up front. Install a sump pump to protect against future flooding. Check all plumbing within the basement – repair pipes with leaks and replace as appropriate. Install gutters to move water away from the house, and use window wells to avoid future water problems.
6. Talk about insulation. Because the basement is cool and damp, its important to create the protection now before a problem arises. Talk with both your plumber and contractor about the best options for your pipes and plumbing locations.
7. Never close off access to your water source. Where is your water main located? Create a way to leave that easily accessible. Whether in a closet or laundry room, its important to leave it easy to find and easy to access.

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Toto High Efficiency faucets

TOTO high-efficiency faucets (HEF) bring style, reliability and water conservation to your bath space. Each TOTO HEF is designed to meet the criteria of the EPA’s WaterSensesm program and is WaterSense certified. TOTO also utilizes a new aerator design to optimize flow, resulting in no discernable difference between 1.5 GPM and common 2.2 GPM faucets.

TOTO High-Efficiency Faucet Water Savings:
Using only 1.5 GPM saves you 31% on water usage/bills over common 2.2 GPM models.



Based on a daily per capita usage of 8.1 minutes.
Assuming an average household of 3.2 people over 365 days.

Every TOTO HEF is designed to meet the criteria of the EPA’s WaterSense program and will be WaterSense certified.

Sunday, June 19, 2011

TOTO® EcoPower

Engineered to require no electricity or routine disposable battery replacement, EcoPower products are the perfect marriage of hands-free operation, low maintenance and sophisticated design. TOTO® EcoPower sensor faucets and flush valves are a shining example of totology.
EcoPower’s turbine, powered by water, creates an electrical current that is stored in rechargeable cells that power the Smart Sensor System of either the faucet or valve. TOTO is the only manufacturer with this proprietary sensor technology. EcoPower replenishes its charge with as few as five uses a day and is optimized at a mere 10 uses per day.

Less Damage, Easier Access

EcoPower faucets are specifically designed to keep controls and components below deck—and out of the way of both accidental and intended damage. And all components are easily and readily accessible when required. The faucet has an easy access screen to protect working components from debris and natural waterborne elements.

Simply Smarter

  • A compact infrared sensor; one of the smallest sensors in the world
  • Aesthetically pleasing design, available in several different styles
  • Self-setting detection range
  • Spout senses users very accurately
  • 10-second cycle or 60-second cycle options
  • 10-second cycles use 0.17 gallons per cycle—or a maximum of 1.06 gallons per minute—32 percent below the baseline of 0.25 gallons per cycle
  • Low flow 10-second cycle uses 0.09 gallons per cycle—or 0.5 gallons per minute—64 percent below the baseline of 0.25 gallons per cycle
  • Infrared sensors well hidden from vandals in the tip of the spout
  • Single supply and thermal mixing models available
  • Laminar flow for a fuller, more pleasing feel
  • Thermostatic faucets precisely temper water and regulate its flow

Putting Water to Work

EcoPower faucets and flushometer valves put water to work by supplying the very energy they consume. The flow of water spins the high-efficiency turbine to both create and store power. Each turn of the turbine powers and recharges capacitors that power the sensor and solenoid valve, which are backed up by the battery. With as few as 10 uses a day, the backup battery itself is seldom used and can last up to 19 years.

TOTO EcoPower faucets raise the bar when it comes to fusing style, conservation and performance. At home in high-end residential bath spaces or upscale commercial installations, EcoPower sensor faucets bring out the best in any bath space.
See EcoPower Faucets

Friday, June 10, 2011

The Top Reason You Need to Own a Gas Fireplace

I know now isn't the time to think about this but it really is a nice comfort to have and Franke Mechanical can make this possible. Maybe you do own an existing wood fireplace, which -like many other of these traditional hearths everywhere- is rarely ever used. Like many people who are thinking about finally saying goodbye to wood and switching to a gas fireplace, you are wondering: what is the one reason that convinced today’s gas fireplace owners to buy one of these products? The answer is simple: convenience of operation.
First and foremost, there will be no more worries about firewood. Buying or collecting firewood yourself, chopping logs and carrying them into your living room, spreading dirt everywhere will be a thing of the past. Gas fireplaces will erase that worry from your mind, making you want to light them every day.
Second, their instant on/off feature will change the way you think about using your fireplace. Starting the gas flame is just a matter of creating an ignition spark – seconds later your fire will be up and running. Extinguishing the fire is also just a matter of shutting the main gas valve and the fire and the heat will be gone immediately.
Cleaning your fireplace will be incredibly easy. No more chimney and firebox cleaning will be required – in fact, the most efficient gas fireplace inserts use a ventless design that even eliminates the need for a chimney. With a correctly adjusted air/gas ratio in the burner, almost no soot will be produced and only the front glass panel will need to be cleaned occasionally. Incidentally, this will also decrease the gas fireplace repair need significantly.
If you look at these arguments, it becomes understandable that convenience is main reason people switch to gas fireplaces. This is especially true for people with a full work day or living in urban areas for whom a gas fireplace is the best option that will increase the pleasure their fireplace will bring them. And since this is the main goal that most owners have for their fireplace, convenience is definitely the top reason to own a gas fireplace.


Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Update your Plumbing

Many older homes have outdated plumbing. The pipes can erode and leak, and can cause major water damage and the need for expensive repairs later. So, updating your plumbing, and properly maintaining and checking our plumbing on a regular basis is an important part of keeping your home in good repair. The following is an explanation of how to update your plumbing:
  1. Call a plumber. Unless you are certified as a plumber, it is probably very important for you to use a professional. There are some things you can do to update your plumbing on your own, but much of this must be done by a professional. And, even some of the things you can do on your own (like change your shower head) should be done by a professional just to avoid problems. It is smart to call Franke Mechanical so that you can get estimates of what updating your plumbing would cost, and what exactly needs to be done to bring your home to date.
  2. Start by updating your pipes. Many older pipes were made of galvanized steel, but today, copper is the pipe material of choice. Of course you can steel use galvanaized, PVC, etc. but copper is the most durable, least likely to break, leak, etc. So, talk to your plumber about your pipe replacement options. Determine what is best for your home, your budget, and your time. Then have them go to it.
  3. Next, as part of updating your plumbing you want to consider your fixtures. An old, outdated fixture outdates your house faster than anything else. So, go to your local home store and pick out new fixtures. You may want to choose sleek and refined, or classic, etc. The look and material choice is up to you. So, go shopping, but be sure to know the right sizes, pressure etc. so that you pick out the right fixtures for your home. Start in the kitchen. Get new faucets, popular choices include the kind with a full out head and adjustable water pressure. You will also want to update your shower head. They make tons of shower head options, ones with different patterns of spray, pressure, etc. Choose an adjustable one. Then replace all handles and faucets on sinks etc.
  4. You may also want to consider changing out drains. In many older homes drains are simply plugs that fit in the hole. A more updated and modern drain is the pop-up drain. So, talk to your plumber about installing new drainage systems.
  5. Another part of updating your plumbing is installing features like water filtration, water softeners, and things like garbage disposals, etc. All of these beautiful upgrades are somewhat expected in homes these days. So, to update your plumbing, you will want to have water lines that run to the fridge, a garbage disposal that is in your sink, a filter on your faucets etc. Talk to your plumber about your options, and determine which are most important to you, and which fit in your budget best.
Updating your plumbing can give your home a newer feel, and save you from the headache of lots of future problems.

Monday, June 6, 2011

Overhauling A Peerless Or Delta Single-Handle Kitchen Faucet

Start:

Being made by the same company, Peerless and Delta single-handle kitchen faucets use the same inner workings, at least that's been my experience. These faucets use an innovative ball-on-a-stick device to open and close passageways that let hot and cold water flow.

Note that some Delta and Peerless single-handle bathtub faucets use a similar design. The handle is attached with a single screw under a cover plate, and the ball-on-a-stick has a different design.

I closed the shut-off valves beneath the sink.

I loosened the set screw that holds the handle in place. This requires a 1/8 inch Allen wrench. The handle just slid off.

The stick poking out the top is attached to the ball. The dome-shaped chrome piece holds the works together. It is threaded onto the body of the faucet.

The plastic ring adjacent to the chrome-dome can be adjusted. This threaded ring has four notches in it. I pushed on a notch with a screwdriver (I had to tap the screw driver lightly with a hammer) to relieve the force on the internal parts.Note that I turned this part counter-clockwise.
Be careful when turning any of these parts... it's possible to rotate the entire faucet body, which can damage the water lines below the faucet. LISTEN carefully while turning any fitting on a faucet... you might hear something else moving.
Then I was able to remove the chrome-dome with a pair of Channel-Lock pliers.Note how the 4-notched ring stays with the dome. It's threaded in place and can be adjusted up or down to make the innards looser or tighter.

Sidebar - Alternative Design: Note how this Delta faucet (late 1990's) has a large hex on the top of the chrome-dome.
The older Peerless faucet in the other pictures has a knurled section on the dome. Trouble is, that knurled part gets chewed up by dis-assembling the faucet, and the little metal fragments can cut your fingers.

I removed the next piece. I don't know if there's a name for this piece of plastic. I call it "the shield" because the opening is shaped like a shield.

This piece has two components. The black-and-white section seals the top of the ball. The yellowish-colored piece (the "shield") clamps the seal in place.
If this seal leaks, water will trickle out from beneath the faucet handle when the faucet is running. It's important to inspect this seal for damage such as nicks or any irregularity in the conical shape. I can't remember ever replacing one of these seals, but I'm sure replacement parts are available,
Also, it helps to remove any buildup of hard water deposits. Notice the light rust coloration on the white conical part. If it gets too heavy, this buildup can interfere with the sealing ability of the synthetic rubber parts. Often these deposits can be removed by simply wiping them off, otherwise a quick soaking in a rust- or lime-removing liquid such as CLR, Lime-Away, vinegar, lemon juice, or (supposedly) even Coca-Cola, which contains phosphoric acid.

Removing ball valve from Delta faucet. I removed the ball. It just lifts straight out.

Note the long hole in the side of the ball. This prevents the ball from rotating during use, yet still allows a certain range of motions.

It's a good idea to inspect the underside of the ball to make sure that the surface is clean and smooth. If the metal appears worn around the holes (you might see a brass color beneath the plating, or a pattern of scratch marks) then replacing the ball would be advised. Replacements can be bought for less than $10, though genuine Delta parts probably cost more.

Delta or Peerless faucet body showing seals. Inside The Faucet Body: The black "donuts" are the seals that ride against the ball. These seals have springs behind them that push them against the ball.
These seals are (from my experience) the most likely reason behind a dripping Delta or Peerless ball-type faucet.
The hot water enters through the left side, cold through the right. The hole in front of those leads to the spout.

I carefully removed the seals with a small flat-blade screwdriver.

I covered the sink drains just in case I dropped something.

The old seal (left). Note how "squared-off" the shape is. The new seal (right) has a more pronounced ridge near the top.
Packages of replacement seals also come with new springs. I suppose it's a good idea to replace the springs, since they seem to loose their pushing force over time.
I pushed the new seals into place. Note the little "knob" of brass about a half inch to the right of my finger tip. This tab is used to guide the movement of the valve ball.
Pushing new seals into place, Delta kitchen faucet.

Using a small screwdriver I scooped up a small dab of silicone grease. This is a non-toxic lubricant for plumbing parts. Silicone grease won't attack rubber seals and it won't wash off.  I use this stuff on most plumbing valve repairs.

I dabbed a little grease on the faces of the seals. It only takes a tiny amount.

I re-installed the ball. Note the guide slot (red arrow). This goes on the right hand side, at least that's what I've always seen. There is a tab on the faucet body that goes into this slot (see picture 3 steps back).

I inserted the top piece (the shield).

Note that the "shield" has a plastic tab that fits into a slot in the side of the faucet body (red arrow).

Anticipating some hassles with assembly, I unscrewed the plastic ring from the chrome-dome. I wanted to make sure that the screw-threads were clean and free from obstructions.

The new springs were much longer and stronger than the old ones.  I had to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to push the "shield" down (thus compressing the springs) while I installed the chrome-dome and plastic ring-thing.

I tightened the chrome-dome with Channel-Lock pliers...

...and then I tightened the plastic ring. I moved the stick by hand while tightening the ring.
One interesting feature of this design is that you can make the handle more difficult or less difficult to move by tightening or loosening this plastic ring.
Somebody asked me about the possibility of making a faucet more difficult to turn on. Seems that their cat bumped the faucet handle, turned the water on, and caused a flood because the sink wasn't draining properly. Fascinating... the things pets can do.

I installed the handle and tightened the set screw. This completes the repair.
I turned the water supply back on and tested the faucet for leaks.

Sidebar: Leakage Around The Faucet Base

 
A common problem with Delta and Peerless faucets is leakage from either the top or bottom of the spout base (red arrows).

Removing the spout is simple: after the ball has been removed, just grasp the spout at the base and pull straight up.
 
O-rings between spout and valve body on Delta or Peerless faucet. There are two O-rings that seal the rotating base of the spout, and these gaskets have a tendency to leak over time. I've seen them leak on faucets that were less than 2 years old. 

 
These O-rings can be removed (carefully) with a small flat-blade screwdriver. I always smear a bit of silicone grease on these O-rings before I re-install the spout, which should reduce the wear on the gaskets. Replacing O-rings around spout, Delta kitchen faucet.

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Recirculating water pump will ease shower frustrations

Waiting for hot water in a shower is frustrating, and it can waste hundreds of gallons of water a year. So, this isn't just a comfort issue; it's also a water-conservation problem that should be addressed.
First, let me bring everyone up to speed on why, in some bathrooms, it seems to take forever to get hot water flowing to the showerhead. It depends on how close your water heater is to your shower. If the water heater is in the basement right below the shower, you should get hot water fairly quickly. But if the water heater and shower are on opposite sides of the home, then hot water must make its way through long lengths of piping before it reaches your shower.
In new construction, plumbers can install a recirculation system with feed and return hot-water lines. This setup can keep a constant flow of hot water to the bathroom area. However, in existing homes it's usually not practical to open up walls and floors to add hot-water return lines. So what you can use is a hot-water recirculating pump.
For Franke Mechanical, installing one is a fairly easy job, and the pump system itself is affordable for most homes. This type of recirculation pump pulls hot water from the water heater, while pushing the cooler water through the home's existing cold-water lines, right back to the water heater to complete the loop. This can give you available hot water closer to the shower.
Now, this is a very basic explanation, since the system includes special control valves to meet most local codes. Recirculating systems should be installed only by a licensed  plumber, and along with a licensed master electrician to wire in the pump itself.
Bottom line: Just ask Franke Mechanical to install a recirculating hot-water pump, to cool down your shower frustrations.

Older Home or Real Estate Professional?

Are you a real estate agent? Do you flip houses? Perhaps you are a homeowner planning to buy or sell a home. When it comes to hiring a plumbing professional for plumbing inspection, plumbing repairs, plumbing add-on's, plumbing remodels or plumbing upgrades, you need the consummate professionals. You need a QUALIFIED PLUMBER. You need Franke Mechanical.
Upgrades to plumbing fixtures on older homes help move homes off the market much faster. We have transformed kitchens and bathrooms before our clients eyes. Having the right plumber with the right experience makes all the difference. We work with homeowners and realtors to make the right upgrades that define a space.
Considered adding on an outdoor kitchen? We can supply the gas line plumbing and water supplies for you.  We have some very exquisite designs and have the experience installing them. We have so many ideas and recommendations from our vast experience to help you on your next project. With all of our satisfied clients you can count on Franke Mechanical for all of your real estate plumbing needs.
Franke Mechanical has reliable, licensed plumbers with years of experience to help with all your plumbing repairs and service needs!  We offer free plumbing estimates for clients all across the Greater Metro Area. Our plumbing contractors are experienced troubleshooters and can pinpoint your problems and be ready to act with a solution. Franke Mechanical can help with most every plumbing service or plumbing repair you can think of from "A" to "Sink".

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Rough Plumbing

Let's say you want to put a toilet in a house. Two-hundred or 300 years ago this was not an option -- everyone used outhouses. If you visit the governor's mansion in Williamsburg, VA, you will see that in the 1700s even England's high colonial governor used a pair of three-holer outhouses located at the back of the formal garden. Eventually, public water supplies and pressurized well systems allowed people to have indoor plumbing, and this allowed for the addition of indoor toilets. A toilet has to flush somewhere, so sewer systems evolved.
Why can't you run the sewer line from a toilet or a sink out of the side of the house so it spills on the ground? That certainly would be easy and inexpensive, but people learned fairly quickly that human waste spilled on the ground smells bad and leads to incredible disease problems. Septic tanks and sewer systems take care of this. The uniform plumbing code lists hundreds of rules for septic-tank installation. These rules ensure that tanks work properly over many years.

Once you have a septic tank in place, you can add sewer lines from the sink or toilet to the septic tank. Say you tried this approach:











The problem with this approach is that as the septic tank fills up with stuff, it produces a rather malodorous cloud of fumes. These fumes float from the septic tank up the sewer line to the sink and into the bathroom. Therefore, plumbing codes require a "P-trap" at every drain opening, as shown here:








You may have wondered why you find these funny loops of pipe under every sink in your house. The idea is that water gets trapped in the "P." This water blocks the fumes from the septic tank and keeps them from entering the bathroom. Unfortunately, a P-trap alone does not solve the problem because it turns out that the fumes in a septic tank are under pressure. The fumes simply bubble through the water in the trap and cause the same problem. Therefore, there is the concept of a vent pipe, which allows the pressure to escape, as shown here:



You may have wondered why houses have pipes sticking up out of the roof. They are vent pipes to relieve the pressure so that P-traps can do their jobs. It turns out that vents also break vacuums so water flows down the pipes faster.

Besides covering P-traps and vent pipes, the uniform plumbing code specifies all sorts of other things:
The required diameters for pipes
The allowed materials for pipes
The types of joints you can use
The necessary supports for pipes
The angle at which pipes must fall
The longest distance for lateral pipes
And on and on and on through hundreds of pages

When plumbers follow all the rules, they are able to create extremely reliable and safe plumbing systems. Over time, new rules get added as people realize funny little quirks and nuances. These new rules prevent problems in the future, and each one makes the code a little bigger and better.

This is all a nice way to say that, even though plumbing looks simple in this section, there are many subtleties and nuances dictated by code that plumbers know and neophytes generally do not. (The same holds true for electrical systems, by the way.)
Rough plumbing involves installing all of the water lines, sewer lines and bathtubs. Tubs are normally installed early because:
One-piece shower-and-tub units are big and often cannot be maneuvered into place later in the construction     cycle. They also frequently "change size" -- that is, the size drawn on the plans and the size delivered often     differ significantly.
A full tub is heavy. Therefore, the tub is installed and filled so that the frame can settle quickly. This step     prevents cracked walls and tile the first time someone uses the tub.

Typically, rough plumbing involves installing all sewer lines and vents as well as all water supply lines for each fixture. Here's a typical sink fixture:



Here's the fixture for a washer:



The tub is put in place and filled. Note the framing problem being corrected on the left side of the tub because the tub changed size:



Here are the lines for the tub:



In the crawl space, the supply lines all branch off from common pipes running the length of the house:



The sewer lines all join together...



... and then exit out the back of the house, ready for connection to the septic tank: