Plumbing Safely for your home

It's a cold morning, and you're ready for a hot shower. But it seems to take forever until the water warms up. If you have a very large home, then the culprit could be long pipe lengths between the water heater (usually in the basement) and the bathroom (master baths are usually on an upper floor). If you're having a home built, that's not a necessary evil -- talk to your builder about the plumbing system design to see what options you have. For example, a re-circulation pump or point source instantaneous unit might be options. While perhaps the least exciting system in the home, plumbing is an important part of a healthy home.
Plumbing includes all of the water supply and water waste lines. When the home's foundation is built, a plumber runs a supply line from the street through the foundation wall or the slab. From that point, they run the lines that supply water to the home to rooms where sinks, bathtubs, showers and other fixtures will be installed.
Copper piping is the traditional material most often used for water supply lines, although some plastic piping materials are gaining popularity and code approval. This diagram shows the path of the water to the fixtures, as well as the path for waste water from the fixtures through the drain waste vent pipes (DWV), and away from the home. The drain waste vent pipe is part of a home's plumbing system that is specifically used to carry waste water down and away from the home, and allows sewer gases to be pushed out through the roof. Drain waste vent pipes are typically plastic.
The plumbing system is required by code to keep the home's occupants safe, including:

• Automatic anti-scald feature at each shower fixture to keep water from getting too hot.
• Traps at each fixture to keep harmful sewer gases from leaking into the home. A trap is a curved section of plumbing pipe that seals the pipe to prevent sewer gas from getting into the home. It's also known as a p-trap. Traps also help prevent unwanted items, like hair or debris, or things that fall down the drain, like rings, from going down the drain and getting stuck in the waste system.
• Drain waste vent pipes to push out harmful sewer gases through the roof.
• As an additional health and safety measure, a specialized building code strictly regulates plumbing systems. A specialized plumbing inspector checks the installation when the pipes are being put in, and again when the home is finished -- right before closing -- to ensure all codes are followed and the plumbing is safe for the occupants.

The plumber also installs the gas lines in the home because the materials and tools needed are similar to those traditionally used for plumbing. Gas supply lines can be black iron or flexible stainless steel or flexible copper pipe. Gas is distributed through the home by a single pipeline that has other pipes branching from it, or by a manifold, which is a pipe with several outlets for supplying multiple pipes.
The plumbing system also includes the water heater. The most common types of water heaters are gas, electric, oil or propane. If you have a gas water heater, direct vented is most desirable. If that's not an option, the second choice is power vented. Direct vented and power assisted are terms that describe how gases generated by the water heater are released from your home, which is critical for you and your family's health. Direct and power vented gas hot water heaters are less susceptible to combustion gases flowing back into the home because they force combustion gases out of the house.
The efficiency of a water heater is measured by its Energy Factor (EF). Hot water tanks with an EF greater than 0.56 for gas-fired units and 0.88 for electric units are recommended. For an upgraded price, you may be able to choose a heat pump water heater or instantaneous water heater. These are more efficient water heaters. You should discuss the features and benefits of both with your builder.
If your home is very large, there may be long pipe lengths between the water heater and one or more of the bathrooms, causing a delay in the hot water getting to that bathroom. Ask Franke Mechanical if this is the case in your home and what the delay might be. If it's more than you're willing to deal with, ask about installing a circulation system that can minimize the delay.
Remember, the choices you make regarding your plumbing system will help ensure your home performs the way you want it to, and that it's absolutely safe for you and your family. When your home is being designed, talk to Franke Mechanical about:

• The hot water tank's storage capacity -- is it enough for your family?
• Whether there's an expansion tank for the water heater, which is a safety measure to prevent pipes from rupturing.
• What type of water heater will be installed in your home and how combustion gases are expelled from the home (it should be either direct or power vented).
• How efficient your water heater is.
• Whether a more efficient system like a heat pump water heater or instantaneous water heater is appropriate and what the additional costs would be.
• What kind of delay you can expect in each of the bathrooms and whether the plumber can install a circulation system to minimize the delay.
• The locations of outdoor spigots, where you'll need to use a hose.

Principles of Venting

A true vent is a vertical pipe attached to a drain line that travels through the roof with no water running through it. If a fixture is close to the stack and on the top floor, the upper part of the stack serves nicely as a vent. Many fixtures are not so conveniently located, however, and other solutions must be found.
A revent pipe, also called an auxiliary vent, attaches to the drain line near the fixture and runs up and over to the main vent. It may attach directly behind the fixture or to the horizontal drain line.
If two fixtures are on opposite sides of a wall, they may tie into the stack with a sanitary cross; this is called a common vent and can be found on back-to-back sinks.
When a fixture is close enough to a stack, a wet vent may be allowed by code. In the case of a tub that is close to a stack, its drain may empty into a pipe that also serves as a vent.
For a freestanding sink code may allow a loop vent. If reventing is difficult and wet venting isn't allowed, you may have to install a separate vent pipe through the roof.
An air admittance valve (AAV) opens to let air in when waste drains, then gravity closes it to keep sewer gases from escaping back into the room. Codes in many localities allow these relatively new devices to take the place of vent lines. Depending on the size of the unit and any code restrictions, AAVs can be used to vent multiple fixtures. Check codes to make sure they permit AAVs.
The critical distance
When you're remodeling your plumbing system, can you install a wet vent, or do you have to install a revent or a separate vent? Finding the answer can involve complicated calculations, based on formulas that can vary from one locale to another. The size of the pipe that codes require, the type of fixture you want to install, and the number of fixtures that are already wet vented on the same line are three factors that determine the critical distance -- how far the fixture can be from the vent pipe. Measure the length of the pipes carefully and consult a plumbing inspector to determine whether wet venting is possible.
Installing vent pipes
Vent pipes, often narrower than drainpipes, need not slope like drainpipes. Normally they run level or plumb, unless there is an obstacle to work around.
Vent pipes must be installed so they stay dry. This means that they should emerge from the top of the drainpipe, either straight vertically or at no less than a 45-degree angle from horizontal, so that water cannot back up into them.
The horizontal portion of a revent pipe must be at least 6 inches above the fixture's flood level -- the highest point to which water can rise. (On a sink the flood level is the sink rim or overflow hole.)
The main drain
Plan drain lines to minimize the possibility of clogs. The general rule is that smaller drainpipes -- 1-1/4 inches for bathroom sinks and 1-1/2 inches for kitchen sinks, for instance -- lead to larger branch drains. These in turn lead to the main stack, which is the largest pipe of all -- typically 4 inches. Because the main stack is also vertical, it will rarely clog.
The main stack leads down into the ground, then out toward the municipal sewer. The underground horizontal pipe, or main drain, that runs toward the sewer line can sometimes get clogged, especially if it is an old drain made of clay pipe.
Typical Venting Alternatives

A true vent pipe must remain dry while water runs down the drain. A wet vent also serves as a drain line but is large enough that it never actually fills with water.
Venting with an Air Admittance Valve (AAV)

Window framing in this wall prevents installation of vent line, so an Air Admittance Valve (AAV) is installed instead.
Other Venting Options

Here are other common ways to tie vents into a stack. Check local codes to see which methods are accepted in your area, then choose the method that requires the least number of holes or notches in studs.

Updating Your Home Plumbing

If you have stayed in your house for a few years now or perhaps purchased an old property, then you should strongly consider updating your plumbing. Outdated pipes have the probability of eroding and leaking, and this may cause major water damages that would require expensive repairs in the future. Here are some suggestions you can follow to avoid these problems.
Probably the most important course of action you are going tp take for this particular endeavour is to acquire the services of the right professional. Obviously, you would want to hire a cost-effective specialist who is capable of producing quality results. Thus, it would be wise to do your research and hire Franke Mechanical.  We can help you choose the right materials and installation is always a breeze with us.
In addition, select pipes that are made with durability in mind. Although those made of classic galvanized steel are sturdy, copper is the top choice of material nowadays as it is least likely to break and leak. Be sure to ask your plumber though as he would know what is best for your home as well as your budget.
Finally, you can also have features like water filtration systems installed as they can be extremely useful upgrades for day-to-day household use.

Basement Bathroom

With more homeowners looking for ways to add value to their homes, many plan to remodel their unfinished basements—and adding an extra bathroom is usually central to those plans. A new basement bathroom is a lot easier for the homeowner to visualize, however, than for a plumber to install. Plumbing a basement bathroom can be time consuming and expensive, but for an experienced plumber it’s also straightforward. Here are a few of the potential problem areas, along with tips from Franke Mechanical on how to do the job well.

Location
Gravity usually isn’t on your side when building a basement bathroom. In many cases, you’ll need an ejector in order to transport waste away from the bathroom. However, sometimes the sewage lines will be far enough below the floor to allow you to plumb the bathroom without an ejector. (This is also dependent on local building codes, of course.) You can gauge the position of a sewage line by using a locator; also, make sure the drainage lines are at least four inches in diameter for toilet and shower lines.
Excavate
If the underground sewage line won’t work, you’ll need to excavate in order to dig the pit for the ejector. The good news here is that concrete basement floors aren’t very thick. You can cut through them with an electric jackhammer or saw. Before you make any cuts however, make sure you are equipped to handle the concrete dust.
Pipe
When it comes to installing pipe, different municipalities have different preferences for material. But for Gage, there’s no question: PVC is best.
Cast-iron pipe has pores just like a person does, and over time acid will eat the bottom right out of the pipe bottom.
Backfill
Next comes backfilling the area you have excavated. It may sound intuitive to fill the gaps with the same dirt you pulled out in the first place, but that’s the wrong move.

Instead use gravel, which allows groundwater room to seep without putting pressure on the floor. We suggest adding a sump pump (if there’s not already one in the basement) for the same reason: the sump pump can protect the home from flooding and also can prevent cracks from developing in the concrete patching.
“The sump pump takes in groundwater and helps keep the water table lower,” says Franke Mechanical.
Plumbing a basement bathroom can be a big job, but it’s not complicated once you understand its unique challenges.

Basement Plumbing

Water treatment
The high mineral content of local water can lead to staining, soap scum buildup, and a reduction in the ability of soap and detergent to get things clean. Such signs indicate that your household water needs softening. Water softeners are pricey and are often rented by the month, but if you install your own it can pay for itself in two to three years.
Basement plumbing
Architects have equated a basement with digging a well and then trying to keep the water out. If your basement floods after heavy rainfall, you may want to install a sump pump. Digging a hole for the reservoir is the difficult part; you'll have to chop through a concrete floor and dig into hard-packed clay, gravel, and sand. But once the reservoir is in place, the plumbing is relatively easy.
If the main drain line is too high for a bathroom in the basement -- or you don't want to break into the concrete floor to trench for drain lines -- consider an upflush toilet unit. Once the drain and vent connections are made, these units are surprisingly easy to install and typically use standard toilets. Most units allow you to hook up sink and tub/shower drains as well. Once the bathroom is framed out and flooring and walls are added, the unit will be hidden.
Adding a laundry area involves running hot and cold supply lines to the washer and tapping into a drain stack. A nearby utility sink is handy for heavy-duty cleanup.
The same techniques apply whether a laundry is upstairs or down.

Working with Copper Pipe

properly soldered (or "sweated") joint on copper pipe is as strong as the pipe itself. A poorly soldered joint will leak. Work systematically because each step depends on the previous one: The pipe must be cut straight and all burrs removed. The inside of the fitting and the outside of the pipe must be clean. Flux must be applied for the solder to adhere. The solder must be fully drawn into the joint.
Pipe ends and fittings must be perfectly round. If either is dented or even slightly flattened, it is all but impossible to restore the original roundness. Cut the pipe again or buy a new fitting.
Cutting with a tubing cutter ensures roundness. If space is tight and you must cut with a hacksaw, do it slowly and gently. If you must bend a pipe to move it away from a wall, work carefully.
Checklist
Time
About 15 minutes to cut a pipe and join a fitting
Tools
Felt-tip marker, tubing cutter or hacksaw, multi-use wire brush, flux brush, propane torch (preferably with a trigger igniter), fiber shield
Skills
Cutting pipe, soldering
Prep
Protect any flammable surfaces with a fiber shield or cookie sheet.
Materials
Copper pipe and fittings, flux, solder (95 percent tin for drinking water supply), damp rag

Step 1

Hold a pipe in place to measure for a cut or use a tape measure. Take into account the distance the pipe will fit into the fitting. Mark

Step 2

Use a large tubing cutter or a small one if space is tight. Align the cutting wheel with the cut mark. Twist the knob until the wheel starts to bite into the pipe. Rotate the cutter once, tighten a half turn or so, and repeat until the pipe is cut. Assemble all the parts of a joint in a dry run.

Step 3

Using a wire brush made for the size of the fitting, ream out every inside opening until it is shiny. Oil from your hand may weaken the joint. If you accidentally touch a brushed opening, ream it again.

Step 4

Brush or sand the outside of the pipe to be joined until it shines by inserting the pipe end in the multi-use brush and spinning the brush a few times. Rebrush or resand if you touch the shiny area.

Step 5

Using the flux brush (it often comes with the can of flux), apply flux to all the inside openings of the fitting and to the outside of the pipe. Take care to keep the flux brush away from any debris; clean it if any particles stick to it.

Step 6

Ignite a propane torch and point the flame at the fitting near the joint -- not at the pipe and not at the joint. The tip of the blue portion of the flame should just touch the fitting. Move the flame back and forth so you heat two opposite sides of the fitting.

Step 7

When the fitting starts to smoke, remove the flame and touch the tip of the solder to the joint. If it does not melt, heat again. Once the fitting is hot enough, the solder will be drawn into the joint. Move the solder around so the entire joint is soldered.

Step 8

Immediately repeat the process for any other joints in the fitting. This will go quickly because the fitting is already hot. Once all the joints are soldered, quickly wipe all the joints with a damp rag. Avoid bumping the fitting for 10 to 15 minutes.
with a felt-tip marker or a pencil.

Why You Need A Reliable Plumber

Most of the folks close to the entire world get their plumbing techniques for granted unless of course they endure implications. These outcomes are typically the ones which value you the most income when you have a plumbing system issue. You will far more than probably will need the companies of a skilled plumber and he is going to charge you some excellent sum of funds. Now considering that we all are not interested in throwing away our cash then you really should adopt some preserving ideas for taking treatment of your residence plumbing method.
Often examine the plumbing technique in your house just to ensure anything is doing work in purchase and all the issues are functioning correctly. Typical checking of the system is a great prevention approach which will assist you avoid the incidence of some complex issues. Most of the time when men and women learn problems, they generally delay their plans to repair it as they think it is just a minor problem. This is precisely when you will face a way even larger problem. It is suggested to get even the minor difficulties fixed irrespective of how small the issue is. The explanation this is important is since just a tiny minor leak can trigger above countless numbers of bucks in harm if left to linger. It is also critical to note numerous insurance corporations will not resolve the damage if they experience the dilemma was left neglected.
It is very proposed that one really should hire the services of a skilled plumber to fix the problems they are unpleasant with repairing simply because a professional will know finest when your plumbing technique is not working appropriately. There are also points that you will need to make sure they take place.
Here are some standard suggestions you can do to retain your plumbing technique doing work good. Make certain that the toilet paper is only paper you flush down your toilet. Never use any cleaners in your toilet tank. When you have a drinking water softener on a regular basis alter your water filters in accordance to the requirements and demands of the manufacturer. One a lot more important tip you will want to do is to drain the drinking water heater each 6months to keep the bottom of the tank free of sediment.
You must have heard the renowned quote that prevention is better than medicine. By employing these guidelines you will be able to save and restrict your plumbing repairs in the long run.
Don’t forget to make positive that you adopt all the preventive measures so as to keep your plumbing system functioning effectively.
Franke Mechanical is going to supply you with the most effective and cost-effective plumbing solutions for just about any scenario. Available 24 hours a day, we’re aware of your distress during crisis situations, and for that reason do our very best to rapidly get to your property or your commercial office.

Maintenance Considerations for Sensor-Operated Fixtures, Faucets

Manual-flush toilets are common, but users do not reliably flush them after use, creating hygiene concerns. Sensor-activated toilets do not require the user to touch the fixture and are designed to operate after every use.
But older, sensor-operated fixtures can phantom-flush several times during one use, leading to water-efficiency problems. Technicians can address this situation by adjusting the beam on the fixture.
Another consideration for sensor-activated toilets is the power source. Battery-operated fixtures operate when power is lost. Some recharge through solar cells and water flow. Sensor-activated units do not require frequent battery changes, with some manufacturers offering a 30-year performance life.
Some fixtures reduce battery use through the use of power from water. Manufacturers install turbines in the fixture's water flow to generate small amounts of electrical power that operate the fixture.
Many sensor-operated fixtures also offer the option of flushing at predetermined times. This feature helps keep the trap primed in fixtures, such as sports facilities, that might not get regular use. This option also can help maintain the charge on a hydro-powered fixture.

Lavatory Faucets

The final category managers can consider when looking to improve restrooms' water efficiency is low-flow faucets. Some reduce water use with a simple flow restrictor in the spout, which technicians can remove easily. Higher-quality fixtures integrate a flow-restricting device into the fixture.
Manual and electronic metering fixtures that control the amount of time a fixture operates are available and recommended for public installations. While sensor-activated faucets can use more water than manual faucets, they provide sanitary benefits that can outweigh the additional water used.
Before installing faucets with flow rates of 0.5-1.8 gpm as standard fixtures, managers should test them to ensure they meet the organization's goals for sustainability and efficiency. When specifying sensor-operated fixtures, it is important to ensure workers coordinate cleaning chemicals and methods to prevent damage to and failure of sensor lenses. Managers whose departments use power washers for cleaning restrooms need to specify fixtures rated for this type of cleaning method.

Do You Need A water Softener?

The NSF tells us that most households today have hard water to some degree.  But how do you know if your home is in that majority?  More importantly, how do you know if your water is hard enough to warrant a water softener?
First, let’s consider a few questions to help you determine if you might have hard water or not:
Can you create a soapy lather?  The calcium and magnesium prevalent in hard water tends to suppress the lathery capabilities of soaps and shampoos.  If you feel you are using too much soap for too little results you might have a hard water problem.
Do your dishes and glasses come out of the wash with unsightly water spots?  Calcium and magnesium tend to form a film on dishes that remains even after the water is evaporated.  If you find yourself struggling with terrible water spots all over your clean dishes you may have problems with hard water.
Does your shower seem to be constantly overrun by soap scum and other unpleasant deposits?  The same minerals that cause your soap not to lather also cause it to linger in your tub.  And just like your dishes, your tub is a great place for hard water to leave its deposits.  If your shower seems to be overrun by white (and we’re not talking a good clean white) than you might have a hard water problem.
If these questions have led you to believe that you have hard water problems, it is time for the next step: determining if you need a water softener.  Check with your water utility company for a recent water report.  If the water in your area is reported as having a hardness greater than 6 or 7 gpg (grains per gallon) or 100-120 ppm (parts per million) then you should consider getting a water softener.

The 10 Most Common Household Repairs

“Old reliable” churns away in your basement or utility room day after day, month after month, year after year like a farm mule in days of yore. Except this one doesn’t eat as much – nor do you have those ugly, malodorous piles laying all around the place!
Except every once in awhile, like a cantankerous old mule, the modern water heater doesn’t do what it’s supposed to do. That’s when you call a plumbing contractor saying “no hot water.”
This is the top reason why people call a plumbing or heating contractor, according to a survey taken a few years ago by the Plumbing-Heating-Cooling Information Bureau (PHCIB) in Chicago. A related problem, a leaking water heater, came in at number 5 out of the top 10.
Looking over the list, I can’t help but shake my head at all the waste of time and money these emergency service calls represent. Most people don’t pay much attention to their household “mule team” – the mechanical systems that provide so much comfort and convenience in our modern lives. We take for granted our water heaters, toilets, faucets, furnaces and air conditioners, until they stop working. Then comes the panicked call to the service company, and a repair job that always ends up costing more than we expect.
Regular care and maintenance can forestall most of these breakdowns at a fraction of the cost of repairs. Have your plumbing, heating and air conditioning inspected, cleaned and checked at least once a year. Progressive service companies offer service agreements in which they automatically come out to take care of these things for a modest annual fee.
Homeowners also should consider replacing ancient water heaters, toilets, furnaces, boilers and other appliances with new high-efficiency or water-saving models. Most of us are in the habit of squeezing out every last day of service out of such equipment. Yet any unit more than 12-15 years old probably can pay for itself within a few years through reduced energy or water usage.Here are the rest of the top 10 household repairs identified by the PHCIB: #2 – Clogged drains. Many of these calls could be avoided by taking greater care in what you put down drains – especially the kitchen sink drain, the most used and most clogged drain in the house. I also recommend regular treatment with Bio-Clean or Super Citrus, biological drain cleaners sold only through plumbing contractors.
#3 - Dripping faucets. This is an annoyance that most homeowners have to deal with from time to time as the washers in the faucets wear out with use. You can extend the life of your faucet washers by not turning them off with too much force.
You may also consider replacing your older faucets with those that feature washer-less valve cartridges instead of rubber washers. Since the valve mechanism is contained in one cartridge, these faucets are easier to repair and replace. In addition, cartridges are generally more durable and do not leak because they do not deteriorate with friction or age as washers do.
#4 - Leaking pipes. In extreme cases, these can cause expensive damage to floors and belongings. To stop a small leak from turning into a big one, take a look at your pipes periodically to check for rust or white lime deposits that may indicate a leak is starting.
#5 – Leaking water heaters. Most often when you have a leaker, it’s time to get rid of the water heater. Usually leaks indicate rusting through at the bottom of the storage tank, for which there is no good repair. By the time this happens, the water heater is usually so old you’d benefit from replacing it with a more energy-efficient model anyway.
#6 - No heat. When your furnace stops operating, it can make for a long, cold winter night. An ounce of prevention here is worth of ton of cure. It’s important to make sure your heating system is functioning properly before the first cold snap hits. Have a competent contractor do a thorough examination and cleaning in late summer or early fall every year.
#7-8 – Running & leaking toilets. This is not only an annoyance, but a waste of water and money. Leaky toilets can cost you upwards of $100 a year on your water bills. If you hear a low humming noise, or if the toilet continues to run into the bowl after the toilet is flushed, it indicates that some part of the mechanism is out of order. Sometimes a minor juggling of the ball-cock or flush valve mechanism solves the problem without cost. Otherwise you may need to replace the entire mechanism.
#9 - New faucet installation. Many homeowners replace faucets not only when they break down, but for decorative reasons as well. This is the ninth most common reason for a service call, according to the PHCIB. A few people buy a faucet from a home center and then call a plumbing firm to do the installation. This is okay, but be forewarned that in doing so, the plumbing firm will only
warranty its workmanship, not the faucet itself.
#10 – Malfunctioning food waste disposer. This can be a messy headache for homeowners. Here are several tips to keep your unit in good working order. First, always run cold water when grinding to move the waste all the way down the drain lines. Fats and grease congeal and harden in cold water and can be flushed through the system. Hot water should not be used because it can dissolve fats and grease, which may then accumulate in the drain line. Almost all bio-degradable food waste can be fed into disposers. However, they should not be used to grind clam or oyster shells, corn husks or other material with high fiber content. Under no circumstances should you put glass, plastic or metal non-food materials through a disposer. This includes bottle caps, tin covers or aluminum foil, which are some of the items service technicians commonly find in clogged or broken disposers.
Maintenance is easy. Grinding small bones and eggshells actually helps clean the disposer by scraping away stubborn deposits or citric acid and pulp. Grinding a little ice is another way to clean deposits and get rid of odors. For the most part, though, disposers are self-cleaning.

Guide to Garbage Disposal Ratings

Garbage disposals are becoming more and more popular. Although the device has been around for decades, it didn’t really become standard fare in most American homes until the 70’s and 80’s, when advances in water pressure and sewage treatment made such waste disposal methods more practical. Today garbage disposals come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and power ratings, including models that use ceramic blades and other design features in lieu of more traditional canisters. If you’re looking for a quick way to distinguish one from the next and choose the best model for your home, it pays to understand what all those numbers really mean.

The most essential component in any garbage disposal purchase is power. Some home units come rates at one-half horsepower, but more modern kitchens generally start with three-quarters HP and go up from there. What you’re paying for with power is essentially the machine’s ability to pulverize stubborn bones and other hardy materials, sparing your trash compactor and giving an organic shot to the sewage. This rating is especially important if you have a septic tank, as finer-grained slurry may be required to meet code and keep your system in working order. Although more power usually translates directly into stronger pulverization, it is worth noting that that size and speed of the blades can make a significant difference as well.

Another major factor that inevitably influences homeowner decisions is the decibel level of the machine. Olden times saw garbage disposals that could easily top out well above the sound of a screaming human, but today’s models are thankfully more demure. Look for sound shielding and anti-vibration features in particular if you want to keep the noise level to a low hum, particularly if you have invested in a larger device. It may also be worth looking into ways to reinforce the cabinetry for a tighter seal around the disposal. 

If you are not sure you can call the professionals at FRANKE MECHANICAL you know we always love to help you with your plumbing!