Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Toto High Efficiency faucets

TOTO high-efficiency faucets (HEF) bring style, reliability and water conservation to your bath space. Each TOTO HEF is designed to meet the criteria of the EPA’s WaterSensesm program and is WaterSense certified. TOTO also utilizes a new aerator design to optimize flow, resulting in no discernable difference between 1.5 GPM and common 2.2 GPM faucets.

TOTO High-Efficiency Faucet Water Savings:
Using only 1.5 GPM saves you 31% on water usage/bills over common 2.2 GPM models.



Based on a daily per capita usage of 8.1 minutes.
Assuming an average household of 3.2 people over 365 days.

Every TOTO HEF is designed to meet the criteria of the EPA’s WaterSense program and will be WaterSense certified.

Sunday, June 19, 2011

TOTO® EcoPower

Engineered to require no electricity or routine disposable battery replacement, EcoPower products are the perfect marriage of hands-free operation, low maintenance and sophisticated design. TOTO® EcoPower sensor faucets and flush valves are a shining example of totology.
EcoPower’s turbine, powered by water, creates an electrical current that is stored in rechargeable cells that power the Smart Sensor System of either the faucet or valve. TOTO is the only manufacturer with this proprietary sensor technology. EcoPower replenishes its charge with as few as five uses a day and is optimized at a mere 10 uses per day.

Less Damage, Easier Access

EcoPower faucets are specifically designed to keep controls and components below deck—and out of the way of both accidental and intended damage. And all components are easily and readily accessible when required. The faucet has an easy access screen to protect working components from debris and natural waterborne elements.

Simply Smarter

  • A compact infrared sensor; one of the smallest sensors in the world
  • Aesthetically pleasing design, available in several different styles
  • Self-setting detection range
  • Spout senses users very accurately
  • 10-second cycle or 60-second cycle options
  • 10-second cycles use 0.17 gallons per cycle—or a maximum of 1.06 gallons per minute—32 percent below the baseline of 0.25 gallons per cycle
  • Low flow 10-second cycle uses 0.09 gallons per cycle—or 0.5 gallons per minute—64 percent below the baseline of 0.25 gallons per cycle
  • Infrared sensors well hidden from vandals in the tip of the spout
  • Single supply and thermal mixing models available
  • Laminar flow for a fuller, more pleasing feel
  • Thermostatic faucets precisely temper water and regulate its flow

Putting Water to Work

EcoPower faucets and flushometer valves put water to work by supplying the very energy they consume. The flow of water spins the high-efficiency turbine to both create and store power. Each turn of the turbine powers and recharges capacitors that power the sensor and solenoid valve, which are backed up by the battery. With as few as 10 uses a day, the backup battery itself is seldom used and can last up to 19 years.

TOTO EcoPower faucets raise the bar when it comes to fusing style, conservation and performance. At home in high-end residential bath spaces or upscale commercial installations, EcoPower sensor faucets bring out the best in any bath space.
See EcoPower Faucets

Friday, June 10, 2011

The Top Reason You Need to Own a Gas Fireplace

I know now isn't the time to think about this but it really is a nice comfort to have and Franke Mechanical can make this possible. Maybe you do own an existing wood fireplace, which -like many other of these traditional hearths everywhere- is rarely ever used. Like many people who are thinking about finally saying goodbye to wood and switching to a gas fireplace, you are wondering: what is the one reason that convinced today’s gas fireplace owners to buy one of these products? The answer is simple: convenience of operation.
First and foremost, there will be no more worries about firewood. Buying or collecting firewood yourself, chopping logs and carrying them into your living room, spreading dirt everywhere will be a thing of the past. Gas fireplaces will erase that worry from your mind, making you want to light them every day.
Second, their instant on/off feature will change the way you think about using your fireplace. Starting the gas flame is just a matter of creating an ignition spark – seconds later your fire will be up and running. Extinguishing the fire is also just a matter of shutting the main gas valve and the fire and the heat will be gone immediately.
Cleaning your fireplace will be incredibly easy. No more chimney and firebox cleaning will be required – in fact, the most efficient gas fireplace inserts use a ventless design that even eliminates the need for a chimney. With a correctly adjusted air/gas ratio in the burner, almost no soot will be produced and only the front glass panel will need to be cleaned occasionally. Incidentally, this will also decrease the gas fireplace repair need significantly.
If you look at these arguments, it becomes understandable that convenience is main reason people switch to gas fireplaces. This is especially true for people with a full work day or living in urban areas for whom a gas fireplace is the best option that will increase the pleasure their fireplace will bring them. And since this is the main goal that most owners have for their fireplace, convenience is definitely the top reason to own a gas fireplace.


Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Update your Plumbing

Many older homes have outdated plumbing. The pipes can erode and leak, and can cause major water damage and the need for expensive repairs later. So, updating your plumbing, and properly maintaining and checking our plumbing on a regular basis is an important part of keeping your home in good repair. The following is an explanation of how to update your plumbing:
  1. Call a plumber. Unless you are certified as a plumber, it is probably very important for you to use a professional. There are some things you can do to update your plumbing on your own, but much of this must be done by a professional. And, even some of the things you can do on your own (like change your shower head) should be done by a professional just to avoid problems. It is smart to call Franke Mechanical so that you can get estimates of what updating your plumbing would cost, and what exactly needs to be done to bring your home to date.
  2. Start by updating your pipes. Many older pipes were made of galvanized steel, but today, copper is the pipe material of choice. Of course you can steel use galvanaized, PVC, etc. but copper is the most durable, least likely to break, leak, etc. So, talk to your plumber about your pipe replacement options. Determine what is best for your home, your budget, and your time. Then have them go to it.
  3. Next, as part of updating your plumbing you want to consider your fixtures. An old, outdated fixture outdates your house faster than anything else. So, go to your local home store and pick out new fixtures. You may want to choose sleek and refined, or classic, etc. The look and material choice is up to you. So, go shopping, but be sure to know the right sizes, pressure etc. so that you pick out the right fixtures for your home. Start in the kitchen. Get new faucets, popular choices include the kind with a full out head and adjustable water pressure. You will also want to update your shower head. They make tons of shower head options, ones with different patterns of spray, pressure, etc. Choose an adjustable one. Then replace all handles and faucets on sinks etc.
  4. You may also want to consider changing out drains. In many older homes drains are simply plugs that fit in the hole. A more updated and modern drain is the pop-up drain. So, talk to your plumber about installing new drainage systems.
  5. Another part of updating your plumbing is installing features like water filtration, water softeners, and things like garbage disposals, etc. All of these beautiful upgrades are somewhat expected in homes these days. So, to update your plumbing, you will want to have water lines that run to the fridge, a garbage disposal that is in your sink, a filter on your faucets etc. Talk to your plumber about your options, and determine which are most important to you, and which fit in your budget best.
Updating your plumbing can give your home a newer feel, and save you from the headache of lots of future problems.

Monday, June 6, 2011

Overhauling A Peerless Or Delta Single-Handle Kitchen Faucet

Start:

Being made by the same company, Peerless and Delta single-handle kitchen faucets use the same inner workings, at least that's been my experience. These faucets use an innovative ball-on-a-stick device to open and close passageways that let hot and cold water flow.

Note that some Delta and Peerless single-handle bathtub faucets use a similar design. The handle is attached with a single screw under a cover plate, and the ball-on-a-stick has a different design.

I closed the shut-off valves beneath the sink.

I loosened the set screw that holds the handle in place. This requires a 1/8 inch Allen wrench. The handle just slid off.

The stick poking out the top is attached to the ball. The dome-shaped chrome piece holds the works together. It is threaded onto the body of the faucet.

The plastic ring adjacent to the chrome-dome can be adjusted. This threaded ring has four notches in it. I pushed on a notch with a screwdriver (I had to tap the screw driver lightly with a hammer) to relieve the force on the internal parts.Note that I turned this part counter-clockwise.
Be careful when turning any of these parts... it's possible to rotate the entire faucet body, which can damage the water lines below the faucet. LISTEN carefully while turning any fitting on a faucet... you might hear something else moving.
Then I was able to remove the chrome-dome with a pair of Channel-Lock pliers.Note how the 4-notched ring stays with the dome. It's threaded in place and can be adjusted up or down to make the innards looser or tighter.

Sidebar - Alternative Design: Note how this Delta faucet (late 1990's) has a large hex on the top of the chrome-dome.
The older Peerless faucet in the other pictures has a knurled section on the dome. Trouble is, that knurled part gets chewed up by dis-assembling the faucet, and the little metal fragments can cut your fingers.

I removed the next piece. I don't know if there's a name for this piece of plastic. I call it "the shield" because the opening is shaped like a shield.

This piece has two components. The black-and-white section seals the top of the ball. The yellowish-colored piece (the "shield") clamps the seal in place.
If this seal leaks, water will trickle out from beneath the faucet handle when the faucet is running. It's important to inspect this seal for damage such as nicks or any irregularity in the conical shape. I can't remember ever replacing one of these seals, but I'm sure replacement parts are available,
Also, it helps to remove any buildup of hard water deposits. Notice the light rust coloration on the white conical part. If it gets too heavy, this buildup can interfere with the sealing ability of the synthetic rubber parts. Often these deposits can be removed by simply wiping them off, otherwise a quick soaking in a rust- or lime-removing liquid such as CLR, Lime-Away, vinegar, lemon juice, or (supposedly) even Coca-Cola, which contains phosphoric acid.

Removing ball valve from Delta faucet. I removed the ball. It just lifts straight out.

Note the long hole in the side of the ball. This prevents the ball from rotating during use, yet still allows a certain range of motions.

It's a good idea to inspect the underside of the ball to make sure that the surface is clean and smooth. If the metal appears worn around the holes (you might see a brass color beneath the plating, or a pattern of scratch marks) then replacing the ball would be advised. Replacements can be bought for less than $10, though genuine Delta parts probably cost more.

Delta or Peerless faucet body showing seals. Inside The Faucet Body: The black "donuts" are the seals that ride against the ball. These seals have springs behind them that push them against the ball.
These seals are (from my experience) the most likely reason behind a dripping Delta or Peerless ball-type faucet.
The hot water enters through the left side, cold through the right. The hole in front of those leads to the spout.

I carefully removed the seals with a small flat-blade screwdriver.

I covered the sink drains just in case I dropped something.

The old seal (left). Note how "squared-off" the shape is. The new seal (right) has a more pronounced ridge near the top.
Packages of replacement seals also come with new springs. I suppose it's a good idea to replace the springs, since they seem to loose their pushing force over time.
I pushed the new seals into place. Note the little "knob" of brass about a half inch to the right of my finger tip. This tab is used to guide the movement of the valve ball.
Pushing new seals into place, Delta kitchen faucet.

Using a small screwdriver I scooped up a small dab of silicone grease. This is a non-toxic lubricant for plumbing parts. Silicone grease won't attack rubber seals and it won't wash off.  I use this stuff on most plumbing valve repairs.

I dabbed a little grease on the faces of the seals. It only takes a tiny amount.

I re-installed the ball. Note the guide slot (red arrow). This goes on the right hand side, at least that's what I've always seen. There is a tab on the faucet body that goes into this slot (see picture 3 steps back).

I inserted the top piece (the shield).

Note that the "shield" has a plastic tab that fits into a slot in the side of the faucet body (red arrow).

Anticipating some hassles with assembly, I unscrewed the plastic ring from the chrome-dome. I wanted to make sure that the screw-threads were clean and free from obstructions.

The new springs were much longer and stronger than the old ones.  I had to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to push the "shield" down (thus compressing the springs) while I installed the chrome-dome and plastic ring-thing.

I tightened the chrome-dome with Channel-Lock pliers...

...and then I tightened the plastic ring. I moved the stick by hand while tightening the ring.
One interesting feature of this design is that you can make the handle more difficult or less difficult to move by tightening or loosening this plastic ring.
Somebody asked me about the possibility of making a faucet more difficult to turn on. Seems that their cat bumped the faucet handle, turned the water on, and caused a flood because the sink wasn't draining properly. Fascinating... the things pets can do.

I installed the handle and tightened the set screw. This completes the repair.
I turned the water supply back on and tested the faucet for leaks.

Sidebar: Leakage Around The Faucet Base

 
A common problem with Delta and Peerless faucets is leakage from either the top or bottom of the spout base (red arrows).

Removing the spout is simple: after the ball has been removed, just grasp the spout at the base and pull straight up.
 
O-rings between spout and valve body on Delta or Peerless faucet. There are two O-rings that seal the rotating base of the spout, and these gaskets have a tendency to leak over time. I've seen them leak on faucets that were less than 2 years old. 

 
These O-rings can be removed (carefully) with a small flat-blade screwdriver. I always smear a bit of silicone grease on these O-rings before I re-install the spout, which should reduce the wear on the gaskets. Replacing O-rings around spout, Delta kitchen faucet.

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Recirculating water pump will ease shower frustrations

Waiting for hot water in a shower is frustrating, and it can waste hundreds of gallons of water a year. So, this isn't just a comfort issue; it's also a water-conservation problem that should be addressed.
First, let me bring everyone up to speed on why, in some bathrooms, it seems to take forever to get hot water flowing to the showerhead. It depends on how close your water heater is to your shower. If the water heater is in the basement right below the shower, you should get hot water fairly quickly. But if the water heater and shower are on opposite sides of the home, then hot water must make its way through long lengths of piping before it reaches your shower.
In new construction, plumbers can install a recirculation system with feed and return hot-water lines. This setup can keep a constant flow of hot water to the bathroom area. However, in existing homes it's usually not practical to open up walls and floors to add hot-water return lines. So what you can use is a hot-water recirculating pump.
For Franke Mechanical, installing one is a fairly easy job, and the pump system itself is affordable for most homes. This type of recirculation pump pulls hot water from the water heater, while pushing the cooler water through the home's existing cold-water lines, right back to the water heater to complete the loop. This can give you available hot water closer to the shower.
Now, this is a very basic explanation, since the system includes special control valves to meet most local codes. Recirculating systems should be installed only by a licensed  plumber, and along with a licensed master electrician to wire in the pump itself.
Bottom line: Just ask Franke Mechanical to install a recirculating hot-water pump, to cool down your shower frustrations.

Older Home or Real Estate Professional?

Are you a real estate agent? Do you flip houses? Perhaps you are a homeowner planning to buy or sell a home. When it comes to hiring a plumbing professional for plumbing inspection, plumbing repairs, plumbing add-on's, plumbing remodels or plumbing upgrades, you need the consummate professionals. You need a QUALIFIED PLUMBER. You need Franke Mechanical.
Upgrades to plumbing fixtures on older homes help move homes off the market much faster. We have transformed kitchens and bathrooms before our clients eyes. Having the right plumber with the right experience makes all the difference. We work with homeowners and realtors to make the right upgrades that define a space.
Considered adding on an outdoor kitchen? We can supply the gas line plumbing and water supplies for you.  We have some very exquisite designs and have the experience installing them. We have so many ideas and recommendations from our vast experience to help you on your next project. With all of our satisfied clients you can count on Franke Mechanical for all of your real estate plumbing needs.
Franke Mechanical has reliable, licensed plumbers with years of experience to help with all your plumbing repairs and service needs!  We offer free plumbing estimates for clients all across the Greater Metro Area. Our plumbing contractors are experienced troubleshooters and can pinpoint your problems and be ready to act with a solution. Franke Mechanical can help with most every plumbing service or plumbing repair you can think of from "A" to "Sink".

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Rough Plumbing

Let's say you want to put a toilet in a house. Two-hundred or 300 years ago this was not an option -- everyone used outhouses. If you visit the governor's mansion in Williamsburg, VA, you will see that in the 1700s even England's high colonial governor used a pair of three-holer outhouses located at the back of the formal garden. Eventually, public water supplies and pressurized well systems allowed people to have indoor plumbing, and this allowed for the addition of indoor toilets. A toilet has to flush somewhere, so sewer systems evolved.
Why can't you run the sewer line from a toilet or a sink out of the side of the house so it spills on the ground? That certainly would be easy and inexpensive, but people learned fairly quickly that human waste spilled on the ground smells bad and leads to incredible disease problems. Septic tanks and sewer systems take care of this. The uniform plumbing code lists hundreds of rules for septic-tank installation. These rules ensure that tanks work properly over many years.

Once you have a septic tank in place, you can add sewer lines from the sink or toilet to the septic tank. Say you tried this approach:











The problem with this approach is that as the septic tank fills up with stuff, it produces a rather malodorous cloud of fumes. These fumes float from the septic tank up the sewer line to the sink and into the bathroom. Therefore, plumbing codes require a "P-trap" at every drain opening, as shown here:








You may have wondered why you find these funny loops of pipe under every sink in your house. The idea is that water gets trapped in the "P." This water blocks the fumes from the septic tank and keeps them from entering the bathroom. Unfortunately, a P-trap alone does not solve the problem because it turns out that the fumes in a septic tank are under pressure. The fumes simply bubble through the water in the trap and cause the same problem. Therefore, there is the concept of a vent pipe, which allows the pressure to escape, as shown here:



You may have wondered why houses have pipes sticking up out of the roof. They are vent pipes to relieve the pressure so that P-traps can do their jobs. It turns out that vents also break vacuums so water flows down the pipes faster.

Besides covering P-traps and vent pipes, the uniform plumbing code specifies all sorts of other things:
The required diameters for pipes
The allowed materials for pipes
The types of joints you can use
The necessary supports for pipes
The angle at which pipes must fall
The longest distance for lateral pipes
And on and on and on through hundreds of pages

When plumbers follow all the rules, they are able to create extremely reliable and safe plumbing systems. Over time, new rules get added as people realize funny little quirks and nuances. These new rules prevent problems in the future, and each one makes the code a little bigger and better.

This is all a nice way to say that, even though plumbing looks simple in this section, there are many subtleties and nuances dictated by code that plumbers know and neophytes generally do not. (The same holds true for electrical systems, by the way.)
Rough plumbing involves installing all of the water lines, sewer lines and bathtubs. Tubs are normally installed early because:
One-piece shower-and-tub units are big and often cannot be maneuvered into place later in the construction     cycle. They also frequently "change size" -- that is, the size drawn on the plans and the size delivered often     differ significantly.
A full tub is heavy. Therefore, the tub is installed and filled so that the frame can settle quickly. This step     prevents cracked walls and tile the first time someone uses the tub.

Typically, rough plumbing involves installing all sewer lines and vents as well as all water supply lines for each fixture. Here's a typical sink fixture:



Here's the fixture for a washer:



The tub is put in place and filled. Note the framing problem being corrected on the left side of the tub because the tub changed size:



Here are the lines for the tub:



In the crawl space, the supply lines all branch off from common pipes running the length of the house:



The sewer lines all join together...



... and then exit out the back of the house, ready for connection to the septic tank: